Free Patterns, Japanese
Free Onigiri Drawstring Bag Crochet Pattern
May
While I was designing the Onigiri plushie pattern, I realized that the shape of the onigiri is actually quite similar to a drawstring bag. And with Summer just around the corner, I wanted to create a cute pouch to hold all of the little things we’ll need to bring for our daughter for all of our trips to the park.
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To translate this post, you can copy the URL and paste it into Google Translate to translate the entire page. Without further ado, let’s get into the pattern!
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**Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional costs to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. You can read a little more about that here!You can use any weight yarn for your bag, just make sure to size your hook to it accordingly. The thickness of your yarn should roughly match the thickness of your hook (just hold your hook up against the yarn to match).
Yarn
You can use any weight yarn for your bag, just make sure to size your hook to it accordingly. The thickness of your yarn should roughly match the thickness of your hook (just hold your hook up against the yarn to match).
For my bag, I used Bernat Velvet yarn (Bulky #5) with a 5mm hook. I like to use softer yarn that drapes slightly to make the bag softer and easier to cinch up. If you are using stiffer yarns like cotton/acrylic/wool, it’s a good idea to go up a hook size. However, keep in mind that with looser tension, the gaps between stitches will be bigger.
I recommend using Bulky weight yarn (or thicker) for the bag itself so that you have a larger bag that is more functional. The finished drawstring bag when made with Bulky weight yarn measures to be roughly 5 inches (13 cm) tall.
For the strings, I’m using Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8 (DK #3) in White (01) with a 2.75mm hook.
How to Crochet an Onigiri Drawstring Bag – Free Crochet Pattern 🍙
The difficulty level of this pattern is Intermediate and this pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
If you have any questions, you can also reach out to me for help. I will respond quickest through DMs on Instagram, but you can also just fill out a contact form here.
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the free pattern on the blog. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.
TERMINOLOGY
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
dec: invisible decrease- single crochet two stitches together through the front loops only
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sc/inc/dec: one sc/inc/dec in the following # stitches
sc#: sc # of times indicated in the same stitch – note that sc3 (3 sc in one st) and 3sc (one sc into each of the next 3 sts) are not the same.
sk next # sts: skip the next # of sts
THINGS YOU NEED
- Bulky weight (#5) yarn or thicker – in Cream or White.
- DK weight yarn (Light #3 or 8-ply) – in Cream or White.
- 5mm (H) Crochet Hook– This is to use with the bulky weight yarn. Adjust the hook size according to your own tension.
- 2.75mm (C) Crochet Hook– This is to use with the DK weight yarn. Adjust the hook size according to your own tension.
- Scissors
- Darning Needle
- Locking Stitch Markers
- Polyester Stuffing (US/International, Canada)
- Black Felt (US/International, Canada)
- Fabric Glue (US/International, Canada)
Notes & Guides
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated – Mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker to help keep track of where the beginning of the round is.
X-Stitch (YU/YO Single Crochet) – Insert your hook into the st, yarn under (wrap the working end of the yarn UNDER the hook) to pull a loop up, then yarn over and pull it through the two loops on your hook.
Working into a Chain – When looking at your chain, you’ll notice that the front of the chain looks like a string of v’s stacked on top of each other. And when you flip it over, you’ll see that there are little bumps behind each chain.
When working into a chain, I like to start in the back bumps of the chain instead of going through the chain itself. Do so by inserting your hook into the bump and working your stitch as usual
If you are working around the chain (to work in the round), you’ll start off by working into the back bumps first, then when you reach the end, continue along the front of the chain (the neatly stacked v’s), making sure to go under both loops of the v.
This method creates a cleaner edge when working flat. And when working around the chain, the centre of the piece will look a little less gappy. You are free to use your preferred method.
Seamless Join in the Round – Cut your yarn tail, fasten off, and thread your yarn tail onto a darning needle. Locate the 2nd st of the round, insert your needle under that stitch and pull through. Insert your needle into the centre of the final st of the round and out the back. Weave the tail into the back of the work. Doing so creates a false stitch on top of the first stitch of the round.
BAG
With Bulky weight White/Cream yarn
1 Ch 15, start in the 2nd ch from the hook: inc, 12sc, sc3, continue in the front of the ch: 13sc [30]
2 sc, sc3, 12sc, sc3, sc, sc3, 12sc, sc3 [38]
Tip: If you are working with fuzzier yarn, mark the middle st of each sc3 to make it easier to count.
3 2sc, sc3, 14sc, sc3, 3sc, sc3, 14sc, sc3, sc [46]
4 3sc, sc3, 16sc, sc3, 5sc, sc3, 16sc, sc3, 2sc [54]
5 4sc, sc3, 18sc, sc3, 7sc, sc3, 18sc, sc3, 3sc [62]
6 sc in all sts [62]
7 5sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 4sc [58]
8-13 sc in all sts [58] *6 Rounds*
14 6sc, dec, 17sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 17sc, dec, 2sc [54]
15-19 sc in all sts [54] *5 Rounds*
20 (7sc, dec) x 6 [48]
21-24 sc in all sts [48] *4 Rounds*
25 sl st to the first st, ch 1, sc in the same st, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts) x 15, sl st to the first sc [16 holes]
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave the tail in.
STRINGS
Make 2.
With DK weight White/Cream yarn.
Ch 110, or until you have a chain that is 4 inches (10.15 cm) longer than the circumference of the opening. Make sure both chains are the exact same length. If the two strings you have are not the exact same length, add a few chains to the shorter one until they are. Fasten off and leave a short tail on both ends of each chain.
ASSEMBLING THE BAG
- Starting from the side of the bag, locate the holes from round 25. Weave the first string through, making sure to weave through all the holes all the way around.
- Locate the other side of the bag and do the same thing but weave the opposite way. Make sure that you’re weaving through the same holes as the other string.
- Tie the tails of each strand into knots on each side, then trim off any excess yarn. You can also thread a large bead through the two tails on each side before tying a thick knot for a more polished finish.
- For the nori, I’m cutting a long piece of black felt and gluing it on with fabric glue. My nori strip is 7 sts wide on the bag. And for the length of the strip, I’m having the nori extend from round 14 in the front and up the back. Alternatively, you can also crochet the nori. Use the nori pattern from the onigiri plushie as a reference, but make sure to adjust the number of chains to start so that the nori is only as wide as 7 sts on the bag.
- To help with the placement of the nori, stuff the bag fully with some polyester fibre fill stuffing. Glue or sew the nori to the bag, doing your best to keep it straight. Start the nori strip from round 14 in the front and up the back.
- If you want your bag to have a face, you can cut out two felt circle for the eyes and glue them to the front, 3 rounds above the nori. Embroider a smile between the eyes with black embroidery floss.
Your bag is now ready! If you’re interested in creating your very own onigiri plushie, head over to this post here!
Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Follow me on Instagram to get updates on new patterns and to see what I’m up to on a daily.
If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! My testers and I do our best to catch my mistakes, but we will still miss things here and there. Also, I will sometimes make mistakes while formatting the blog post.
You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the shop or the free blog post. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.
Onigiri Amigurumi Crochet & Onigiri Drawstring Bag (Pattern Only)
