If you’ve been following me for a while, you’ll know that I love Bob’s Burgers and have made a few other Bob’s Burgers themed patterns in the past. Back in early 2020, I released the full Flu-ouise collection. And while I really love those patterns, I did notice that because of how big they are, they were not as approachable.
So it’s been on my list to design a much smaller Kuchi Kopi (and potentially the other Flu-ouise toys when I find more time) to make it a little easier for those of you who want your own Kuchi Kopi but can’t commit to making a huge one.

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Revisit All of My Previous Bob’s Patterns!









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Yarn I Used
I usedPaintbox Yarns Cotton Aran for this crochet amigurumi plushie. Feel free use any yarn as long as you correspond your hook to the weight of your yarn. You can also easily size up/down by using thicker/thinner yarn, just make sure to change the size of your hook accordingly.
I used 35g Lime Green, a little bit of Champagne White and Black.
Please keep in mind that the exact amount of yarn you use will depend on your personal tension and the type of stitch you use. I’m merely providing the amount I use to give you a better idea of how much you might need. Each skein is 50g.

Gauge
5 Round Circle = 1.5” with a 2.75mm (C) hook
Note: I am working with the x-stitch (yarn under/yarn over single crochet). If you are working a standard sc, go down a hook size.
Gauge isn’t super important for amigurumi, but I included it just in case you want to check your gauge. Being a little off should not affect the final product too much. You can learn more about how to measure gauge for amigurumi here!
Free Small Louise’s Stuffed Animal Kuchi Kopi Crochet Amigurumi Pattern
The difficulty level of this pattern is Confident Beginner and this pattern is written in US crochet terminology. All the photos in this pattern are worked right-handed.
If you have any questions, you can also reach out to me for help. I will respond quickest through DMs on Instagram, but you can also just fill out a contact form here.
The finished Kuchi Kopi measures to be roughly 4 in (10.15 cm) tall.
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the free pattern on the blog. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.
TERMINOLOGY
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
dec: invisible decrease- single crochet two stitches together through the front loops only
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sc/inc: one sc/inc in the following # stitches
THINGS YOU NEED
- Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran (#4, or 10-ply) yarn – I used 35g of Lime Green and a little bit of Champagne White and Black.
Please keep in mind that the exact amount of yarn you use will depend on your personal tension and the type of stitch you use. I’m merely providing the amount I use to give you a better idea of how much you might need. Each skein is 50g. - 2.75mm (C) Crochet Hook – Adjust the hook size according to your tension/yarn weight
- Scissors
- Darning Needle
- Locking Stitch Markers
- Polyester Stuffing
- Sewing Pins to help with sewing
- DMC 6-Strand Embroidery Floss – Black
- Embroidery Needle


Notes & Guides
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker to help keep track of where the beginning of the round is.
Seamless Join in the Round – Cut your yarn tail, fasten off, and thread your yarn tail onto a darning needle. Locate the 2nd st of the round, insert your needle under that stitch and pull through. Insert your needle into the centre of the final st of the round and out the back. Weave the tail into the back of the work. Doing so creates a false stitch on top of the first stitch of the round.
Closing the Hole – To close the hole, fasten off and thread the yarn tail onto a darning needle. Insert the needle under the front loop of the next stitch and pull through. Repeat with the rest of the stitches, then pull on the tail to close the hole. Weave the tail into the centre of the hole to hide the tail. If you are having a tough time closing the hole with 8 sts, decrease down to 4 sts with the optional extra round.
Sewing – To make the stitches from sewing less bulky, you can split the tail for sewing into two bundles. Cotton/acrylic yarn is typically made up of multiple threads twisted together, so you’ll be able separate the threads by untwisting the yarn. Sew your piece onto the main piece using one of the bundles.
To secure the yarn tails, thread both tails of your yarn out of the same spot, then tie a tight double knot. Trim off any excess tails, then poke it into your plushie to hide the knot.


Sewing Amigurumi Parts Together – Pin the loose part (the Ear in the photo example below, which I will be calling A) onto the base part (Head, B).
Thread the yarn tail from A onto a darning needle. *Insert the needle into B, immediately beneath the yarn tail and out the next space on B immediately below the next stitch of A. Pull through, then insert the needle through both loops of the next stitch of A. Repeat the steps starting from the *, going all the way around A. Thread the tail through B to hide the yarn tail.

Avoiding the Pointy Cone Shape when Using Thicker Yarn – If you are using thicker yarn (like chenille) and notice the top of the head looking a little pointy or cone-like with the regular pattern, redo the first 3 rounds with the following pattern:
1 8sc in magic circle [8]
2 8inc [16]
3 (sc, inc) x 8 [24]
Continue to round 5 of the regular pattern. You will be one round short in total, but chenille yarn stitches tend to be slightly taller, so the Head shape will still look good even if it’s missing one round. Just keep in mind that the eye placement will need to be adjusted.
It’s also a good idea to stretch it out slightly to help flatten it out.
ARMS
Make 2. Make the Arms first before you make the Head/Body.
With Lime Green yarn.
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 (sc, inc) x 3 [9]
3-5 sc in all sts [9] *3 Rounds*
6 Flatten the opening of the arm, do not stuff. 4sc through both sides (see photo below).
Fasten off, you do not need to leave a long tail.

HEAD/BODY
Stuff as you go.
With Lime Green yarn.
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 6inc [12]
3 (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4 (sc, inc, sc) x 6 [24]
5 (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]
6 (2sc, inc, 2sc) x 6 [36]
7 (11sc, inc) x 3 [39]
8 (6sc, inc, 6sc) x 3 [42]
9 (13sc, inc) x 3 [45]
10 sc in all sts [45]
11 (7sc, inc, 7sc) x 3 [48]
12-13 sc in all sts [48] *2 Rounds*
14 (7sc, dec, 7sc) x 3 [45]
15 sc in all sts [45]
16 (13sc, dec) x 3 [42]
17 (5sc, dec) x 6 [36]
18 (2sc, dec, 2sc) x 6 [30]
19 (2sc, inc, 2sc) x 6 [36]
20 (5sc, inc) x 6 [42]
21 3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 2sc, line the sts of one of the Arms up to the next few sts of the Body and crochet through both pieces (see left photo below): 4sc, continue around the Body:(inc, 6sc) x 2, inc,
line the sts of the second Arm to the next few sts on the Body and crochet through both pieces: 4sc,
continue around the Body: 2sc, inc, 3sc [48]

22 (15sc, inc) x 3 [51]
23 (8sc, inc, 8sc) x 3 [54]
24-26 sc in all sts [54] *3 Rounds*
27 (17sc, inc) x 3 [57]
28-30 sc in all sts [57] *3 Rounds*
31 (17sc, dec) x 3 [54]
32-33 sc in all sts [54] *2 Rounds*
34 (8sc, dec, 8sc) x 3 [51]
35 (15sc, dec) x 3 [48]
36 (2sc, dec, 2sc) x 8 [40]
37 (3sc, dec) x 8 [32]
38 (sc, dec, sc) x 8 [24]
39 (sc, dec) x 8 [16]
40 8dec [8]
Optional 41st round: 4dec [4] (See “Closing the Hole” in Notes and Guides above for more details.)
Fasten off, stuff fully, close the hole, and weave the tail in.
EARS
Make 2.
With Lime Green yarn.
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 sc in all sts [6]
Fasten off, do not stuff, and leave a tail for sewing.
It’s going to look like a flat circle but just squish it between your fingers to push the centre up so that it looks more like an ear. You can trim the yarn tail from the magic circle down, then stuff the remaining tail into the Ear.

EYES
Make 2.
With Champagne White yarn.
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 (sc, inc) x 3 [9]
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and leave a tail for sewing.
Note: If you are making your Kuchi Kopi with plush yarn (Bulky (5) or thicker), use worsted weight yarn to make the eyes instead of the plush yarn. This will prevent the eyes from being too bulgy when you sew them on. Use the following pattern:
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 6inc [12]
3 (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Optional Rounds for Bigger Circle:
4 (sc, inc, sc) x 6 [24]
5 (3sc, inc) x 6 [30
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and leave a tail for sewing.
PUPILS
Make 2.
With Black yarn.
Tie a double overhand knot.
Leave two tails for each pupil.


ASSEMBLY
- Thread the tails of the pupils through the Eyes, with one tail going through the centre of the magic circle and the other tail through the middle of the first round (see photo below for where to insert the two tails). Kuchi Kopi’s pupils are not centered, so doing so will give him his signature wonky eyes.
- Turn the Eye piece around and tie a tight double knot in the back to secure the pupils. Trim off any excess yarn tails.


- Pin the Ears to the top of the Head. With the top of the Ears starting at round 6 of the Head.
To make sure the Ears are symmetrical, look at the placement of the Ear from the top of the Head down before sewing it in place. The middle of the Arm should line up to the Ear. It’s also a good idea to pin both the Ears and the Eyes at the same time to adjust the positioning before you sew them down.

- Pin the Eyes to the face to position. The top of the Eyes should start at round 9 of the Head and there should be 4-5 sts between the eyes. The widest part of the Eyes will be about 5 sts from the centre of the Ear (see photo below). Sew the Ears and Eyes to the Head/Face (see “Sewing Amigurumi Parts Together” in Notes and Guides).

- With Black embroidery floss, embroider the mouth between rounds 14 & 15. The mouth should be 3 sts wide.

Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Follow me on Instagram to get updates on new patterns and to see what I’m up to on a daily.
If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! My testers and I do our best to catch my mistakes, but we will still miss things here and there. Also, I will sometimes make mistakes while formatting the blog post.
You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the shop or the free blog post. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.




I just finished the Big Kuchi Kopi and I can’t wait to make this small one for my friend’s daughter!!! <3 <3
This might be the best photo tutorial companion I’ve ever seen. I love it.
Thank you! 🙂
Amazing tutorial! All of the photos and explanations are spot on and very easy to follow. My Kuchi Kopi turned out great!