Free Chinese Lunar New Year Firecrackers Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Celebrate Lunar New Year by creating this festive firecracker ornament!

Firecrackers are traditionally used to scare away the “Nian” beast (年獸, mandarin pronounciation: nián shòu), a beast that shows up to wreak havoc and cause mayhem during Lunar New Year. People quickly learned that the beast was afraid of loud noises, the colour red, and bright lights. To ward off the beast, every year on the first day of Lunar New Year, people will set off firecrackers.

This firecracker ornament makes a great door decoration. Hang it on your door or on your doorknob to ward off bad luck for the year!


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Yarn I Used

I used Scheepjes Catona Yarn for this crochet amigurumi decoration, but you can use any yarn as long as you correspond your hook to the weight of your yarn. You can also easily size up/down by using thicker/thinner yarn, just make sure to change the size of your hook accordingly.

I used about 28g of Scarlet (192) and 15g of Yellow Gold (208). The amount of yarn you will need will vary based on your tension and the type of stitch you use. Each skein is 50g. 

LoveCrafts

Gauge

5 Round Circle = 1.125” with a 2.25mm (B) hook

Note: I am working with the x-stitch (yarn under/yarn over single crochet). If you are working a standard sc, go down a hook size.

Gauge isn’t super important for amigurumi, but I included it just in case you want to check your gauge. Being a little off should not affect the final product too much. You can learn more about how to measure gauge for amigurumi here! 

Free Chinese Lunar New Year Firecrackers Decoration Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

The difficulty level of this pattern is Confident Beginner and this pattern is written in US crochet terminology. All the photos in this pattern are worked right-handed.

If you have any questions, you can also reach out to me for help. I will respond quickest through DMs on Instagram, but you can also just fill out a contact form here.

This finished firecracker ornament is roughly 10.5 in (25.5cm) tall.

Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the free pattern on the blog. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site. 


TERMINOLOGY

st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
BLO: crochet only in the back loops (loop away from you) of each stitch
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sc/inc: one sc/inc in the following # stitches
sc#: sc # of times indicated in the same stitch – note that sc3 (3 sc in one st) and 3sc (one sc into each of the next 3 sts) are not the same.
(x, y) in the next st: work everything in the parenthesis into the same st

THINGS YOU NEED


Notes & Guides

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker to help keep track of where the beginning of the round is.

Seamless Join in the RoundCut your yarn tail, fasten off, and thread your yarn tail onto a darning needle. Locate the 2nd st of the round, insert your needle under that stitch and pull through. Insert your needle into the centre of the final st of the round and out the back. Weave the tail into the back of the work. Doing so creates a false stitch on top of the first stitch of the round.

Jogless transition to BLO/FLO – Before transitioning into a BLO/FLO round, fasten off, seamless join in the round and weave the tails in. To pick up a stitch, start with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the FLO/BLO of the false stitch from when you seamless joined in the round. Work the next stitch like you normally would into the FLO/BLO. Doing so reduces the “step” you get when transitioning into a BLO/FLO round and will make the back of your work look neater.

Stripes This is the method I use to create more seamless-looking stripes when working colour changes. Feel free to use the method you are most comfortable with.

Change the final stitch of the round before your colour change into a slip stitch. Fasten off and work a seamless join in the round.

For the firecrackers: With a slip knot of the new colour on your hook, pick up a standing single crochet stitch in the 2nd st of the round. Work the rest of the round as you normally would and repeat these steps when you have to change colours again. You are basically shifting the first st of each colour change round one st to the left (right for lefties).

For the sign: Pick up a standing sc in the false st created by the seamless join in the round.


Crocheted Calligraphy Sign

Make 2. See below for notes.

With Scarlet (192) yarn

1          8sc in magic circle [8]
2          8inc [16]
3          (sc, inc) x 8 [24]
4          sc in all sts [24]          
5          sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 7, sc [32]
6          2sc, (inc, 3sc) x 6, inc, sc [40]
7          sc in all sts [40]

For the first sign you make, switch to Yellow Gold (208) yarn for round 8. This will be the front panel. For the back panel, do not change the colour for round 8.

8          3sc, (sc3, 4sc) x 7, sc3, sc [56]

Fasten off the front panel. Seamless join in the round, and weave the tail in. Do not fasten off for the back panel, proceed to round 9 below.

EMBROIDERY

Embroider the character “福” (pronounced “fú”, it means “blessing” or “good fortune”) on the front panel with DMC 725 (Medium Old Gold) embroidery floss. I used a red marker to lightly write the 福 character on the front panel, then embroidered over it. You can also just embroider directly onto the front and adjust the strands where you need to. Tie the two ends of the embroider floss in the back with a tight double knot to secure the strands.

For the back panel, work rounds 1-8. Then for the 9th round, crochet through both pieces.

Line the front panel in front of the back panel. Make sure the right side of the back panel is against the wrong side of the front panel. Throughout this round, insert the hook through the BLO of the front panel, then through both loops of the back panel. Start at the top of the sign (see left photo below) and check to see that the sc3 for both panels are properly lined up to each other.

9          4sc, (inc, 6sc) x 7, inc, 2sc, sl st (this st will be worked into the first st of the rnd), ch 8 (to hang onto a doorknob, chain more to create a bigger loop for hanging), sl st into the same st you sl st into, sl st in the next st [64]

Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave the tails in.

FIRECRACKERS

Make 8 (or as many as you want)

Start with Yellow Gold (208) yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2          (inc) x 6 [12]

3          BLO, sc in all sts [12]
4          sc in all sts [12]

5          sc in all sts [12]

6-11     sc in all sts [12] *6 rounds*

12        sc in all sts [12]

13        sc in all sts [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail (7”) for sewing. Stuff lightly with the help of a chopstick.

TOPS

Make 8

With Yellow Gold (208) yarn

Make the other end of the firecracker by working rounds 1& 2. When making your magic circle, leave a long tail (at least 6”), then make the first round. Close the magic circle (leave a slight opening big enough for your hook to go through), then pull your hook up slightly to prevent the loop from unravelling and remove your hook. Insert your hook into the centre of the magic circle (left photo below) and pull a loop up using the tail from the magic circle.

Chain 5, then insert your hook back into the centre of the magic circle and work a slip stitch to create a loop. Pull your hook up to fasten off, then weave the tail from the magic circle into the centre of the magic circle. Continue working round 2. 

Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave the tails in. Tie a tight double knot with the two yarn tails then trim off the excess yarn tails.

To assemble your firecracker, take the long tail from the main piece and sew it to the top piece. Do so by whip stitching through the front loop only of the top piece and both loops from the main piece. Continue all the way around, then weave the tail in.

TASSEL/ASSEMBLY

  • To make the tassel, wrap the Scarlet (192) yarn around your piece of cardboard (3.5” x 3.5”) 18 times. If using thinner yarn/thread, wrap around the board more times. And if using thicker yarn, wrap around the board less. Cut the end of the yarn.
  • Cut a long piece of yarn (about 7-8”). Thread the piece of yarn underneath the top of the bundle using a darning needle and tie a tight double knot. Remove the bundle from the cardboard.
  • Starting with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the centre of the circle bundle. Ch 1 tightly around the bundle then ch 10.
  • Insert your hook into the loop of a firecracker, ch 3. Repeat for the rest of the firecrackers except for the final one. For the final firecracker, ch 2 instead of 3. To make sure the firecrackers are positioned properly, alternate the position of the firecrackers when you insert your hook into the firecracker loops.
    Start by positioning to the left (left photo below), then right (right photo below) and continue back and forth when crocheting through the firecracker loops.
  • Locate the centre-most st at the bottom of the sign (st highlighted in green below, the sts highlighted in blue are the increases). Work a sc into that st, then sl st in the next st. Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave the tail in.
  • Take the Scarlet yarn and wrap it around the top of the bundle as tightly as you can, going over it as many times as you want. Once you are happy with it, tie a tight double knot. Thread the yarn under the bundle, through the centre of the bundle, and down the other side to hide the tail.
  • Cut the bottom of the bundle, then trim the bottom of the tassels as evenly as possible. The fringes of the tassel should be around 2” long.

Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Follow me on Instagram to get updates on new patterns and to see what I’m up to on a daily. 

If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! My testers and I do my best to catch my mistakes, but we will still miss things here and there. Also, I will sometimes make mistakes while formatting the blog post.

You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com.  Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind.  Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!

Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the shop or the free blog post. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.

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