Happy Lunar New Year! This year, Lunar New Year celebrations start on February 1, 2022 and it’s the year of the Tiger. Rawr! If you’ve been following me for a while, you’ll know that I try my best to put out at least one new Lunar New Year pattern each year. This year is no exception!

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If you wish to print out the pattern, you can purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of the Year of the Tiger pattern from my shop. ($5 CAD) The PDF also includes a few extra photos.

By purchasing the printable version, you are supporting me directly. Your support allows me to continue to create new patterns and maintain the site! 🙂

To translate this post, you can copy the URL and paste it into Google Translate to translate the entire page. Without further ado, let’s get into the pattern!

New to Amigurumi? Find video tutorials on my YouTube Channel!

**Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional costs to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. You can read a little more about that here!

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Yarn I Used

I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran for this crochet amigurumi toy, but you can use any soft cotton yarn as long as you correspond your hook to the weight of your yarn. You can also easily size up/down by using thicker/thinner yarn, just make sure to change the size of your hook accordingly.

I used about 15g of Melon Sorbet, 13g of Champagne White, 15g of Red Wine, 6g of Buttercup Yellow, and a little bit of Coffee Bean. The amount of yarn you will need will vary based on your tension and the type of stitch you use. Each skein is 50g. 

Gauge

5 Round Circle = 1.5” with a 3.25mm (D) hook

Note: I am working with the x-stitch (yarn under single crochet). If you are working a standard sc, go down a hook size.

Gauge isn’t super important for amigurumi, but I included it just in case you want to check your gauge. Being a little off should not affect the final product too much. You can learn more about how to measure gauge for amigurumi here! 

Free Year of the Tiger Stuffed Animal Lunar New Year Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

The difficulty level of this pattern is Intermediate and this pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

If you have any questions, you can also reach out to me for help. I will respond quickest through DMs on Instagram, but you can also just fill out a contact form here.

This toy is roughly 6.75 in (17.15cm) tall.

Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the free pattern on the blog. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site. 

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TERMINOLOGY

st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
dec: invisible decrease- single crochet two stitches together through the front loops only
BLO: crochet only in the back loops (loop away from you) of each stitch
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sc/inc/dec: one sc/inc/dec in the following # stitches
sc#: sc # of times indicated in the same stitch – note that sc3 (3 sc in one st) and 3sc (one sc into each of the next 3 sts) are not the same.
(x, y) in the next st: work everything in the parenthesis into the same st

THINGS YOU NEED

• Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran – 15g of Melon Sorbet, 13g of Champagne White, 15g of Red Wine, 6g of Buttercup Yellow, and a little bit of Coffee Bean. The amount you use will vary based on your tension and stitch type.
• 3.25mm (D) Crochet Hook (Go down a hook size if you are working the regular single crochet stitch)
• 8mm Safety Eyes with Matching Backings (Optional, you can also embroider in the eyes instead)
• Scissors
• Darning Needle
• Locking Stitch Markers (Optional)
• Polyfil Stuffing or Scrap Yarn
• DMC Light Effects Embroidery Floss  – E3821 (Antique Gold)
• DMC 6-Strand Embroidery Floss – 3031 (Brown), Optional: 3688 (Pink for the blush) and B5200 (White for the eye details)
• Embroidery Needle
• Wire or Pipe Cleaners (Optional)
• Tacky or Fabric Glue (Optional)

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Notes & Guides

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker to help keep track of where the beginning of the round is.

Seamless Join in the Round – Cut your yarn tail, fasten off, and thread your yarn tail onto a darning needle. Locate the 2^nd st of the round, insert your needle under that stitch and pull through. Insert your needle into the centre of the final st of the round and out the back. Weave the tail into the back of the work. Doing so creates a false stitch on top of the first stitch of the round.

Jogless transition to BLO/FLO – Before transitioning into a BLO/FLO round, fasten off, seamless join in the round and weave the tails in. To pick up a stitch, start with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the FLO/BLO of the false stitch from when you seamless joined in the round. Work the next stitch like you normally would into the FLO/BLO. Doing so reduces the “step” you get when transitioning into a BLO/FLO round and will make the back of your work look neater.

Better Stripes with Amigurumi – To create better stripes for amigurumi, change the final stitch of the round before your colour change into a slip stitch. Fasten off and work a seamless join in the round.

With a slip knot of the new colour on your hook, pick up a standing single crochet stitch in the false stitch (highlighted in green in the photo below) created by the Seamless Join in the Round. Work the rest of the round as you normally would and repeat these steps when you have to change colours again.

Closing the Hole – To close the hole, fasten off and thread the yarn tail onto a darning needle. Insert the needle under the front loop of the next stitch and pull through. Repeat with the rest of the stitches, then pull on the tail to close up the hole. Weave the tail into the centre of the hole to hide the tail. I personally like to decrease down to 12 sts, then closing the hole as opposed to decreasing down to 6 sts. I find that it creates a less puckered closure. But if you are having a tough time closing the hole with 12 sts, decrease down to 6 sts with the optional extra round.

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Head

starting with Melon Sorbet yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2          6inc [12]
3          (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4          sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 5, sc [24]
5          (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]
6-7       sc in all sts [30]
8          2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x 5, 2sc [36]
9-10     sc in all sts [36]
11        (5sc, inc) x 6 [42]
12        sc in all sts [42]

If you are using safety eyes, insert safety eyes between rounds 9 & 10, leaving 6 sts between the eyes. Snap the backings in. I am choosing to embroider the eyes in for my Tiger, so I’m leaving out the safety eyes.

switch to Champagne White yarn

13        sc in all sts [42]
14        (5sc, dec) x 6 [36]
15        2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x 5, 2sc [30]
16        (3sc, dec) x 6 [24]
17        sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x 5, sc [18]
18        (sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Optional 19^th round: 6dec [6] (See “Closing the Hole” in Notes and Guides above for more details.)

Stuff fully, fasten off, close hole, and weave tails in. Roll the head between your palms to shape.

Snout

with Champagne White yarn

1. Ch 6, work into the back bumps and start in the 2^nd ch from your hook: 4sc, sc3 in the final bump, continuing in the front of the chain (start in the 2^nd ch, do not work into the 1^st ch because it’s the same as the final back bump): 3sc, inc [12]
2. 5sc, inc, (2hdc, dc) in the next st, 3sc, (dc, 2hdc) in the next st, inc [18]
3. sc in all sts [18]

Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and leave a tail for sewing.

Ears

Make 2

with Melon Sorbet yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2-3       sc in all sts [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

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Arms

Make 2

starting with Champagne White yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2          6inc [12]
3          sc in all sts [12]
4          sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x 2, sc [9]

switch to Melon Sorbet yarn

5-8       sc in all sts [9]

switch to Buttercup Yellow yarn

9          sc in all sts [9]

switch to Red Wine yarn

10        BLO, sc in all sts [9]
11-12   sc in all sts [9]

Fasten off. If you want to make the arms poseable, cut a short piece of pipe cleaner to the length of the arm and insert it into each arm, making sure to wrap the tips of the wire in to ensure the wire doesn’t poke out. If not, just stuff it lightly with the help of a chopstick. Whip stitch the opening shut and leave a tail for sewing.

Legs

Make 2, stuff as you go.

starting with Champagne White yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2          6inc [12]
3          (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4          sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 5, sc [24]

switch to Melon Sorbet yarn

5          6sc, (dec, sc) x 2, (sc, dec) x 2, 6sc [20]
6          5sc, 5dec, 5sc [15]

switch to Buttercup Yellow yarn

7          sc in all sts [15]

switch to Red Wine yarn

8          BLO, sc in all sts [15]
9-10     sc in all sts [15]

LEFT LEG

11        14sc

Fasten off.

RIGHT LEG

11        sc in all sts [15]
12        5sc

Do not fasten off the 2^nd leg. We will be connecting the 2^nd leg to the first leg in the next part.

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Body

Note: Depending on your personal tension, you may need to adjust the number of stitches from round 11 of the left leg so that the feet are pointing the same way. When joining in round 1 of the Body, take a look at the alignment of the feet. If the left foot is pointing outwards too much, undo a stitch or two.

start with Red Wine yarn

1          Ch 1, sl st into the 1st st on the first leg (see left photo), this is the first st of your round, 14sc, inc in the back bump of the chain (right photo), 15sc, inc in the front of the chain [34]

2          8sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 10sc [36]
3          15sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 16sc, inc [39]
4          inc, 38sc [40]
5          sc in all sts [40]

switch to Buttercup Yellow yarn

6          sc in all sts [40]

switch to Red Wine yarn

7          BLO, sc in all sts [40]
8          9sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 9sc, dec [37]
9          dec, 35sc [36]
10        5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) x 2, 5sc [33]
11        sc in all sts [33]
12        (9sc, dec) x 3 [30]
13        sc in all sts [30]
14        4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x 2, 4sc [27]
15        (7sc, dec) x 3 [24] (Mark the front loop of the st before the 2^nd decrease stitch of this round with a stitch marker. You may need to adjust the position of your marker based on your personal tension. Just make sure to mark the front loop of the stitch to the left of the stitch aligned to the centre of the body.)

switch to Champagne White yarn

16        BLO, sc in all sts [24]

Fasten off, stuff fully, seamless join in the round, and leave a long tail for sewing (roughly 12”).

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Tail

Optional: Cut a piece of wire or pipe cleaner to 3.5” (8.9 cm). If you are using a pipe cleaner, double up on the pipe cleaner for a sturdier piece of wire. Make sure to bend the wire ends in so that they don’t poke out of your toy. Including a piece of wire in the tail will help your Tiger stand up on its own.

starting with Coffee Bean yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2-3       sc in all sts [6]

switch to Melon Sorbet yarn

4-6       sc in all sts [6]

Insert your wire/pipe cleaner and start crocheting around the wire/pipe cleaner. If you do not do this now, you will have a harder time inserting the pipe cleaner later on.

switch to Coffee Bean yarn

7-9       sc in all sts [6]

switch to Melon Sorbet yarn

10-12   sc in all sts [6]

switch to Coffee Bean yarn

13-15   sc in all sts [6]

switch to Melon Sorbet yarn

16-20   sc in all sts [6]

Trim off any excess wire/pipe cleaner and bend the ends in. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

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Hat Decoration

with Buttercup Yellow yarn

1          Start with a slip knot with a slightly longer tail. Ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook [1]

Fasten off and leave a tail to help with Hat assembly.

Hat

starting with Red Wine yarn

1          6sc in magic circle [6]
2          6inc [12]
3          (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4          sc in all sts [18]

switch to Buttercup Yellow yarn

5          sc in all sts [18]

Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and leave a tail for sewing.

Hat Assembly

Thread both tails from the Hat Decoration through the centre of the top of the Hat. Tie a large knot on the inside of the Hat to secure to the small decoration piece in place.

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Assembly

• Pin the Ears to the top of the Head, with the top of the Ears starting at round 4 of the Head. Sew in place.
• Pin the Snout to the front of the face, with the top of the Snout starting at round 10 of the Head. Make sure the indent on the Snout is positioned around the chin area. To make the dip of the Snout more pronounced, shape it with your fingers first before pinning it into place. Sew the Snout in place, stuffing fully as you go. If you are using safety eyes, the snout will sit between the eyes and the top of the Snout will be a little below the bottom of the eyes.

• Pin the Body to the Head, making sure to line the centre of the Snout to the centre of the body. Sew the Body to the Head.
• With Buttercup Yellow yarn, locate the stitch marker from round 15 of the Body and pick up a single crochet in the exposed front loop. Into the remaining front loops: 22sc, leaving one front loop unworked.

• Pin the Arms to the sides of the Body, with the top of the Arms sitting right below the Buttercup Yellow collar. The Arms should be 7 sts apart from the front (or count 3 stitches on the collar, see left photo below). Sew the Arms in place once you are happy with the positioning.
• Pin the Tail to the Tiger’s butt and sew in place.

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• With brown embroidery floss, embroider in the feet details. I chose to embroider in 4 lines per foot, with the lines starting between rounds 2 & 3, and spanning two rounds.
• With brown embroidery floss, embroider in the paw details. I chose to embroider in 3 lines per paw.
• With gold embroidery floss, embroider in the shirt detail. I chose to embroider one vertical line down the middle from the collar, spanning 4 rounds. Then embroidered 3 horizontal lines over it. The DMC metallic floss can be a little slippery, so it’s a good idea to dab a little bit of tacky glue to the floss ends to keep the embroidery from unravelling.

• With Coffee Bean yarn, embroider in the tiger stripes onto the Head. The side stripes will sit under the ears on either side, roughly 6 sts in width, with a 2-round gap between each stripe. For the forehead stripes, embroider a line down the centre of the head, stopping at round 7 of the head. Embroider 3 evenly spaced out lines across the forehead line. You can extend this to the back of the head as well.
• If you are embroidering in the eyes instead of using safety eyes, do so now with your embroidery floss and embroidery needle. The eyes of my Tiger are sitting on round 9 of the head, with 6 sts between the eyes.
• Embroider in the nose and mouth onto the Snout, as well as the pink blush right below the eyes. Feel free to play around with the expression of your Tiger by changing the embroidery of the mouth.

• Pin the Hat onto the top of the Head and sew it in place, stuffing as you go.
• With the gold embroidery floss, embroider in the Hat design detail. I did so by dividing the hat up into 6 equal wedges.

You have just finished your very own Lunar New Year Tiger doll!

Wishing you prosperity and good fortune for the Year of the Tiger!

You’ll find the free pattern for the Yuan Bao (Gold Ingot) on my blog & the printable PDF for purchase in my shop!

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Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Follow me on Instagram to get updates on new patterns and to see what I’m up to on a daily. 

If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! My testers and I do my best to catch my mistakes, but we will still miss things here and there. Also, I will sometimes make mistakes while formatting the blog post.

You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com.  Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind.  Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!

Please do not reprint, redistribute, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the shop or the free blog post. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.