Look into the magical crystal ball and see into your future! This crystal ball is great as an ornament, or as one of Bernadette the Witch’s accessories. This also doubles as a snow globe ornament for Christmas! Just change up the embroidery in the crystal ball and adjust the colours to be a bit more Christmassy.

Note: To protect my work, I have disabled right click and printing on my site because I have experienced theft in the past. Please do not copy my patterns in any way. By copying or distributing my patterns without permission, you are making it difficult for designers like me to continue doing what I love. Doing so also discourages me and will prompt me to stop sharing my patterns freely. If you wish to utilize the free patterns, you may do so on my site. Thank you so much for your understanding and for being respectful!
If you have an issue with how I choose to share my free patterns on my site, read this.
By purchasing the printable version, you are also supporting me directly. Your support allows me to continue to create new patterns and maintain the site! 🙂

To translate this post, you can copy the URL and paste it into Google Translate to translate the entire page. Without further ado, let’s get into the pattern!
New to Amigurumi? Find video tutorials on my YouTube Channel!
**Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional costs to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. You can read a little more about that here!
Yarn I Used
I used WeCrochet Shine Sport Yarn for this crochet amigurumi toy, but you can use any soft cotton yarn as long as you correspond your hook to the weight of your yarn. You can also easily size up/down by using thicker/thinner yarn, just make sure to change the size of your hook accordingly.
I used roughly 7g of Hydrangea and 5g of Currant or Serenade (I love them both!) The amount of yarn you will need will vary based on your tension and the type of stitch you use. Each skein is 50g.

Gauge
5 Round Circle = 1.35” with a 2.75mm hook.
Note: I am working with the x-stitch (yarn under single crochet). If you are working a standard sc, go down a hook size.
Gauge isn’t super important for amigurumi, but I included it just in case you want to check your gauge. Being a little off should not affect the final product too much. You can learn more about how to measure gauge for amigurumi here!
Free Magic Crystal Ball Halloween Ornament Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
The difficulty level of this pattern is Confident Beginner and this pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
This pattern works up quickly but has elements (Jogless BLO/FLO, see Notes & Guides below) that may take longer to work up. You can also reach out to me for help. I will respond quickest through DMs on Instagram, but you can also just fill out a contact form here.
The finished ornament measures to be about 2.25in (5.5 cm) tall. All the photos in this pattern are worked right-handed.
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the free pattern on the blog. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.
TERMINOLOGY
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
dec: invisible decrease- single crochet two stitches together through the front loops only
YO: yarn over
sc2tog: single crochet two together: (insert hook into the next st, YO, draw up a loop) x 2, you should have 3 loops on your hook. YO and draw it through all 3 loops on your hook.
BLO: crochet only in the back loops (loop away from you) of each stitch
FLO: crochet only in the front loops (loop closest to you) of each stitch
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sc/inc: one sc/inc in the following # stitches
THINGS YOU NEED
- WeCrochet Shine Sport Yarn – I used roughly 7g of Hydrangea and 5g of Currant or Serenade (I love them both!)
- Embroidery Floss (I used Black, White, and 335 Rose DMC Perle Cotton No. 5)
- 2.75mm Crochet Hook (Go down a hook size if you are working the regular single crochet stitch)
- Embroidery Floss or Sequins – I’m using DMC Light Effects in E3837, E718, & E168.
- Embroidery Needle for Embroidery
- Scissors
- Darning Needle
- Locking Stitch Markers
- Polyfil Stuffing

Notes & Guides
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker to help keep track of where the beginning of the round is.
Picking up stitches on a piece that has been fastened off – Start with a slip knot on the hook, insert the hook into the designated stitch and work the stitch regularly. Hide the tail from the slip knot by sandwiching it into the backs of the final few stitches of the round.
Seamless Join in the Round – Cut your yarn tail, fasten off, and thread your yarn tail onto a darning needle. Locate the 2nd st of the round, insert your needle under that stitch and pull through. Insert your needle into the centre of the final st of the round and out the back. Weave the tail into the back of the work.
Jogless transition to BLO/FLO – Before transitioning into a BLO/FLO round, fasten off, seamless join in the round and weave the tails in. To pick up a stitch, start with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the FLO/BLO of the false stitch from when you seamless joined in the round. Work the next stitch like you normally would into the FLO/BLO. Doing so reduces the “step” you get when transitioning into a BLO/FLO round and will make the back of your work look neater.
If you’re feeling a bit lazy and don’t really care if there is a seam towards the back of the work, you could join the rounds instead. To do so for BLO/FLO, slip stitch into both loops of the first st of the round (this does not count as your first st), ch 1, then work in the back/front loop of the same first st you sl st into. Continue working into the BLO/FLO for the rest of the round.
Below is a comparison of the difference between the two methods. Because the yarn I’m using for the base is darker, it’s not very noticeable. The method you choose is up to you, but I personally just prefer the jogless transition more than the joined rounds even though it’s a bit more work.

Closing the Hole – To close the hole, fasten off and thread the yarn tail onto a darning needle. Insert the needle under the front loop of the next stitch and pull through. Repeat with the rest of the stitches, then pull on the tail to close up the hole. Weave the tail into the centre of the hole to hide the tail.
Crystal Ball
with Hydrangea yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 6inc [12]
3 (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4 sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 5, sc [24]
5 (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]
6-7 sc in all sts [30]
8 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x 5, 2sc [36]
9-10 sc in all sts [36]
11 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x 5, 2sc [30]
12 sc in all sts [30]
13 (3sc, dec) x 6 [24]
14 sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x 5, sc [18]
Stuff the ball lightly. Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave the tail in.
Base
See Jogless BLO/FLO in Notes & Guides above and choose your method for working the BLO/FLO in this section. If you are working my method, I’ve marked the rounds you will need to fasten off and seamless join in the round with an asterisk (*). Stuff as you go.
with Currant or Serenade yarn
1 In the FLO of round 14 of the crystal ball, work the following: sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 5, sc [24]*
2 BLO, sc in all sts [24]*

3 FLO, (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]*
4 BLO, sc in all sts [30]*
5 BLO, (3sc, sc2tog) x 6 [24]
6 sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x 5, sc [18]
7 (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
Stuff fully, fasten off, and close the hole. Weave the tail through the bottom and out the top, pull to help flatten the bottom out a bit more and trim the tail.
Embroidery & Finishing
- With your embroidery floss of choice and your embroidery needle, embroider in a few asterisks and French knots on the front of the crystal ball to represent sparkles. French knots are more advanced in terms of difficulty and the DMC Light Effects floss can make it even harder to make as the texture of the floss is quite slippery. If you are new to embroidery on amigurumi, you might want to practice making French knots on a scrap piece of cloth first before attempting it on your crystal ball.
I like to embroider my pieces after they’ve been stuffed, but if you like embroidering your pieces while they are unstuffed, embroider the crystal ball before you start working on the base.
- You can also sew on some sequins or small beads at this point if you have some on hand for extra sparkle!
- To make your crystal ball into an ornament, string a piece of yarn through the top of the ball and tie a knot to create a loop.
Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Follow me on Instagram to get updates on new patterns and to see what I’m up to on a daily.
If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! My testers and I do my best to catch my mistakes, but we will still miss things here and there. Also, I will sometimes make mistakes while formatting the blog post.
You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the shop or the free blog post. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.

These Halloween ornaments are very cute.