Halloween is fast approaching! Bernadette the bear is ready to cast some spells and brew up some potions in her witch outfit!
If you have not made Bernadette yet, you’ll find the free amigurumi crochet pattern for the bear in this post. If you wish to print out the pattern, you’ll find the ad-free, printable PDF in my shop!
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Yarn I Used
I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran for this crochet amigurumi toy, but you can use any soft cotton yarn as long as you correspond your hook to the weight of your yarn. You can also easily size up/down by using thicker/thinner yarn, just make sure to change the size of your hook accordingly.
I used about 35g of Pansy Purple, 5g of Raspberry Pink, and 15g of Pure Black. The amount of yarn you will need will vary based on your tension and the type of stitch you use. Each skein is 50g.
Gauge
5 Round Circle = 1.5” with a 3.25mm (D) hook
Note: I am working with the x-stitch (yarn under single crochet). If you are working a standard sc, go down a hook size.
Gauge isn’t super important for amigurumi, but I included it just in case you want to check your gauge. Being a little off should not affect the final product too much. You can learn more about how to measure gauge for amigurumi here!
Note: The original Bernadette the Bear pattern used a 3.5mm hook but has since been updated to a 3.25mm hook. If you made your bear with a 3.5mm hook, continue using the 3.5mm hook for the outfits in this pattern. The outfits made using a 3.25mm hook will be too small for your 3.5mm bear.
Free Bernadette the Bear Witch Stuffed Animal Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
The difficulty level of this pattern is Intermediate and this pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
This pattern contains methods that could be considered more Intermediate/Advanced, but there are loads of photos in this pattern to use as guides. You can also reach out to me for help. I will respond quickest through DMs on Instagram, but you can also just fill out a contact form here.
With the hat on, Bernadette will be roughly 7 in (17.75 cm) tall.
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the free pattern on the blog. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.
TERMINOLOGY
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
dec: invisible decrease- single crochet two stitches together through the front loops only
YO: yarn over
sc2tog: single crochet two together: (insert hook into the next st, YO, draw up a loop) x 2, you should have 3 loops on your hook. YO and draw it through all 3 loops on your hook.
sk next # st: skip the next number of stitches and work the next step into the st after the skipped stitches
ch sp: chain space- the space created when you chain and skip a few stitches to work the next st
FLO: crochet only in the front loops (loop closest to you) of each stitch
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sc: one sc in the following # stitches
sc/dc#: sc/dc # times in the next stitch
turn: turn your work, this means that you will no longer be working in the round.
THINGS YOU NEED
- Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran – I used roughly 35g of Pansy Purple, 5g of Raspberry Pink, and 15g of Pure Black. OR, your choice of yarn & colours, just make sure to adjust your hook size accordingly. The amount you use will vary based on your tension and stitch type.
- Embroidery Floss – I’m using DMC Light Effects in E168
- 3.25mm (D) Crochet Hook (Go down a hook size if you are working the regular single crochet stitch)
- Scissors
- Darning Needle
- Locking Stitch Markers
- 1 Mini Button (6 or 7mm- men’s dress shirts often have spare buttons on a tag by the waist)
- Thread and Needle to Sew the Button
- Glue (Optional)
- White Felt or Sequins to decorate the little black dress with (Optional)
Notes & Guides
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker to help keep track of where the beginning of the round is.
Skip the turning chain – Do not chain one at the beginning of each row when turning your piece. By skipping the chain, the edge looks less jagged.
Picking up stitches on a piece that has been fastened off – Start with a slip knot on the hook, insert the hook into the designated stitch and work the stitch regularly. Hide the tail from the slip knot by sandwiching it into the next few stitches.
Changing colours – A couple stitches before changing colours from colour A to B, sandwich colour B into the back of the colour A stitches to secure the tail of colour B (photos 1, 2, 3).
Make sure the tail of colour B is coming out of the wrong side of your work (photo 3).
When you reach the stitch where colour change is required, work the first part of the stitch with colour A, then drop colour A and pick up colour B to pull through to change the colour of the top loop of the stitch (photo 4).
Jogless transition to BLO/FLO – Before transitioning into a BLO/FLO round, you can choose to fasten off, seamless join in the round and weave tails in. To pick up a stitch, start with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the FLO/BLO of the false stitch from when you seamless join in the round. Work the next stitch like you normally would. This step is not necessary for this particular project, but doing so reduces the “step” you get when transitioning into a BLO/FLO round and will give you better results.
Better Stripes with Amigurumi – To create better stripes for amigurumi, change the final stitch of the round before your colour change into a slip stitch. Fasten off and work a seamless join in the round.
With a slip knot of the new colour on your hook, pick up a standing single crochet stitch in the false stitch created by the Seamless Join in the Round. Work the rest of the round as you normally would and repeat these steps when you have to change colours again.
Witch’s Hat
starting with Pansy Purple yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 sc in all sts [6]
3 (sc, inc) x 3 [9]
4 sc in all sts [9]
5 sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 2, sc [12]
6 (3sc, inc) x 3 [15]
7 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x 2, 2sc [18]
8 (sc, inc) x 3, 3sc, (sc, dec) x 3 [18]
9 sc in all sts [18]
10 (5sc, inc) x 3 [21]
11 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) x 2, 3sc [24]
Begin working back panel (pictured below):
12-13 12sc, turn [12] (See “Skip Turning Chain” in Notes & Guides)
14 (3sc, inc) x 3, turn [15]
switch to Raspberry Pink yarn
15 15sc, turn [15]
16 15sc
Fasten off and weave the tails in.
Front Panel
starting with Pansy Purple yarn
Pick up the following in round 11 of the Hat, starting from the 2nd st beside the Back Panel (st highlighted in green in the first photo below):
1-2 10sc, turn [10]
3 (3sc, inc) x 2, 2sc, turn [12]
switch to Raspberry Pink yarn
4 12sc, turn [12]
5 12sc, ch 3, working into the Back Panel (2nd photo below): 15sc, ch 3, sl st to the first st
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave the tails in.
switch to Pansy Purple yarn
6 Pick up the first st of the round on the sl st from round 5 (third photo below): 12sc, 4sc in ch sp, 15sc, 4sc in ch sp [35]
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave tails in.
Hat Rim
with Pansy Purple yarn
With the hat upside-down, pick up the following starting from the back of the hat: FLO, sl st, ch 3 (this counts as your first st), dc2, (dc, dc2) x 16, dc [51]
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave tails in.
Little Black Dress
Note: For the dress, you will be working in joined rounds instead of continuous rounds. The ch 1 at the beginning of each round does not count as your first st. Instead, work the first sc of each round into the same st you sl st into (see photos below). Doing so creates a seam towards the back of the dress, but it makes the rounds look more level.
with Pure Black yarn
Ch 42. Making sure that the ch is not twisted, sl st into the first ch to join.
1 Ch 1, 42sc, sl st to the first st to join [42]
2-4 Ch 1, sc in all sts, sl st to the first st to join [42] *If you want to make the dress longer, you can add 2-3 more rounds here.
5 Ch 1, 6sc, dec, (12sc, dec) x 2, 6sc, sl st to first st to join [39]
6-7 Ch 1, sc in all sts, sl st to the first st to join [39]
8 Ch 1, (11sc, dec) x 3, sl st to first st to join [36]
9-11 Ch 1, sc in all sts sl st to the first st to join [36]
12 Ch 1, 5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) x 2, 5sc, sl st in the first st to join [33]
13 Ch 1, 5sc, ch 6, sk next 5 sts, 12sc, ch 6, sk next 5 sts, 6sc, turn, do not sl st to first st to join [23 sts and two ch sp]
14 Ch 1, 2sc, sc2tog, 2sc, 6sc in the ch sp, 5sc, sc2tog, 5sc, 6sc in ch sp, 2sc, sc2tog, sc, ch6 (adjust the amount of chains based on how big your button is; more chains for bigger buttons), sl st into the top of the final st of the round to create a button loop [32] *Note: sc2tog is different from dec, see terminology to see the distinction between the two.
Fasten off and weave the tails in. Sew the mini button onto the other side of the gap. To fit the dress onto your bear, pull the dress from the bottom up and squeeze the body in to help it fit through the tighter dress.
Embroidery & Felt Details for the dress (optional)
- Cut out a few shapes (moons, stars, etc) from your white felt and glue them onto the front of the dress. Allow the glue to dry fully before continuing with the embroidery.
- With DMC Light Effects Floss in E168 (Silver) or embroidery floss of your choice, embroider a few stars and French knots onto the dress. To get a more delicate look, I split the 6 strands into bundles of 2 and embroidered the stars with 2 strands. To secure the floss in the back, I tied a triple knot and dabbed some glue onto the knot for added security. If you do not do this for the Light Effects Floss, the knot will unravel. I kept my designs simple by just embroidering a few asterisks, x’s, and crosses to represent stars in the empty spaces around the felt pieces.
Cloak Strap
with Raspberry Pink yarn
Ch 66, fasten off and weave the tails in. Trim off any excess yarn tails and dab with a little bit of glue to secure the end so that it doesn’t unravel. Allow the glue to completely dry before proceeding with the rest of the cloak. Mark the 17th ch from each end with a stitch marker. If you prefer a longer strap to tie a bow with, add more chains. Just make sure to adjust the stitch marker accordingly.
Cloak
Note: Keep your tension a little bit looser when working this piece.
starting with Pansy Purple yarn
1 Pick up a sc in the 18th ch from the end, 31sc, turn [32]
2 5sc, ch 8, sk next 6 sts, 10sc, ch 8, sk next 6 sts, 5sc, turn [20 sts, and two ch sp]
3 5sc, 8sc in the ch sp, 10sc, 8sc in the ch sp, 5sc, turn [36]
4 sc in all sts, turn [36]
5 ch 1, 5hdc, 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 5hdc, turn [36]
6 12sc, 12hdc, 12sc, turn [36]
7-14 sc in all sts, turn [36]
switch to Raspberry Pink yarn (see “Better Stripes with Amigurumi” in Notes and Guides)
15 sc in all sts [36]
Fasten off and weave tails in.
Cloak Trim
with Pansy Purple yarn
Starting with a slip knot on your hook, pick up the following: 14sc down the side, sc3 in the first st of the bottom, 34sc along the bottom, sc3 in the final st along the bottom, and 14sc up the final side [68]
Cloak Sleeves
Worked in continuous rounds.
starting with Pansy Purple yarn
1 Pick up 16sc around the arm hole (see st distribution in the bottom left photo) [16]
2-4 sc in all sts [16]
5 (3sc, inc) x 4 [20]
switch to Raspberry Pink yarn
6 sc in all sts [20]
Fasten off, seamless join in the round, and weave tails in.
Assembly
- To put the dress onto your bear, pull the dress up from the bottom up. Slip the arms through the arm holes and button up the back of the dress. The fit may be a little tight, so you’ll have to squeeze the body through the dress.
- Place the witch hat onto the head of your bear, making sure the front of the hat is facing the forward. The front of the hat is the side with the thinner Raspberry Pink Band (2 rows).
- Put the cloak on and tie a bow around the neck with the cloak strap.
Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Follow me on Instagram to get updates on new patterns and to see what I’m up to on a daily.
If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! My testers and I do my best to catch my mistakes, but we will still miss things here and there. Also, I will sometimes make mistakes while formatting the blog post.
You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to the shop or the free blog post. Please do not copy and post the pattern onto your site.
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