If you’re a big Bob’s Burgers fan, then you’ll know who this is! Ever since I put out the Flu-ouise Pattern Collection, I’ve gotten a TON of requests for me to make the therapy dolls. And because the Bob’s Burgers community has been so supportive and nice (seriously, thank you!), I’ve decided to do it!
Gauge
5 Round Circle = 2” with a 3.5mm hook
Gauge isn’t super important for amigurumi, but I included it just in case you want to check your gauge. Being a little off should not affect the final product too much. You can learn more about how to measure gauge for amigurumi here!
**Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional costs to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. You can read a little more about that here!
Yarn I Used
I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran for this toy; however, you can use any cotton yarn as long as you correspond your hook to the weight of your yarn. For this pattern, I used roughly 35g of Ballet Pink (< 1 skein of yarn), 30g of Raspberry Pink ( a little less than half a skein of yarn), 40g of Duck Egg Blue (< 1 skein of yarn), and 25g of Sailor Blue (~half a skein).
Free Repressed Memory Emily (Mr. Frond’s Therapy Dolls from Bob’s Burgers) Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
The difficulty level of this pattern is Easy/Intermediate. The plush measures to be about 9.5 inches (23cm) tall.
This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
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Terminology Used In This Pattern
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
inc: two single crochet in one stitch
dec: invisible decrease, single crochet two stitches together through the front loops only
BLO: crochet only in the back loops (loop away from you) of each stitch
FLO: crochet only in the front loops (loop closest to you) of each stitch
sk next ch: skip the next chain and work the next step into the ch after the one you skipped
(…) x #: repeat anything in the parenthesis however many times the number indicates
[#]: total number of stitches for that row
#sl st/sc/hdc/dc: one sl st/sc/hdc/dc in the following # stitches
turn: turn your work
Things You Need
- Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran in Ballet Pink, Raspberry Pink, Duck Egg Blue, and Sailor Blue
- 3.5mm Crochet Hook
- 8mm Safety Eyes and Matching Backings
- Scissors
- Darning Needle
- Locking Stitch Markers (Optional)
- Pins
- Polyfil Stuffing or Scrap Yarn
- Black Embroidery Thread
- 10mm Button (Any colour, I’m using a black button)
Head
with Ballet Pink yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4 sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 5, sc [24]
5 (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]
6 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x 5, 2sc [36]
7 (5sc, inc) x 6 [42]
8 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) x 5, 3sc [48]
9 (7sc, inc) x 6 [54]
10-12 sc in all sts [54]
13 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc) x 5, 4sc [60]
14-16 sc in all sts [60]
17 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x 5, 4sc [54]
18-19 sc in all sts [54]
20 (7sc, dec) x 6 [48]
21 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x 5, 3sc [42]
22 (5sc, dec) x 6 [36]
23 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x 5, 2sc [30]
24 (3sc, dec) x 6 [24]
25 sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x 5, sc [18]
26 (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
Fasten off, stuff fully, close hole, and weave tail in.
Body
with Duck Egg Blue yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4 sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x 5, sc [24]
5 (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]
6 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x 5, 2sc [36]
7 (5sc, inc) x 6 [42]
8 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) x 5, 3sc [48]
9-11 sc in all sts [48]
12 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x 5, 3sc [42]
13-14 sc in all sts [42]
15 (5sc, dec) x 6 [36]
16-18 sc in all sts [36]
19 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x 5, 2sc [30]
20-22 sc in all sts [30]
Fasten off, stuff fully, and leave a long tail for sewing.
Hair
Notes about the Hair:
- The hair is worked in one piece, this means that you do not have to cut the tail until the very end.
- If you are using acrylic yarn, the hair might get curly if your tension is too tight. To avoid that, you can go up a hook size or crochet loosely.
Hair Cap
with Raspberry Pink yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 BLO, (inc) x 6 [12]
3 BLO, (sc, inc) x 6, sl st to the back loop of the first st [18] (see photo 1 below)
Do not fasten off, you will be working the Hair Strands in the next part.
First Layer
Each row is a strand of hair.
with Raspberry Pink yarn
1 Ch 20, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, sk next ch (photo 2 – doing so will prevent your hair from curving but will leave a slight kink), 13sc, sl st into the back loop of the next st on the hair cap (photo 3), ch 1, turn [18]
2-11 Working into the BLO of the previous strand, sl st, 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc (photo 4), ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, sk next ch, 6sc in the rest of the ch, 7sc in the BLO (photo 5), sl st into the back loop of the next st on the hair cap, ch 1, turn [18] (photo 6 shows what it should look like after Row 2) (Skip “ch 1, turn” on row 11)
Bangs
12-18 Ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (photo 7), 2 sl st, sk next ch, 2 sl st, sl st into the back loop of the next st on the hair cap [5] (Skip “sl st into the back loop of the next st on the hair cap” on row 18)
Second Layer
For the second layer of hair, you will be working into the front loops of the outermost stitches of the hair cap (the front loops of the back loops you worked into in Part 1).
To set up for this part, sl st into the first front loop (see photo 8 above).
19-29 Ch 20, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, sk next ch, 13sc, sl st into the front loop of the next st on the hair cap, ch 1, turn [18] (Skip “ch 1, turn” on row 29)
Bangs
30-32 Ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sl st, sk next ch, 2 sl st, sk the next st on the hair cap and sl st into the front loop of the 2nd stitch from your strand on the hair cap (photo 9) [5]
Third Layer
For the third layer, you will be working into the front loops of Round 2 of the Hair Cap. To set up for Part 3, sl st into the front loop of the first stitch of Round 2 of the Hair Cap (highlighted in green in photo 10).
33-39 Ch 20, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, sk next ch, 13sc, sl st into the front loop of the next st on the hair cap (highlighted in orange in photo 10), ch 1, turn [18]
Fasten off, leave a very long tail for sewing. Thread the tail under the hair cap to make sewing a little easier later.
Arms
Make 2
starting with Ballet Pink yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 sc in all sts [12]
4 (2sc, inc) x 4 [16]
5-6 sc in all sts [16]
switch to Duck Egg Blue yarn
7-14 sc in all sts [16]
Fasten off, stuff fully, and leave a tail for sewing.
Legs
Make 2
starting with Ballet Pink yarn
1 6sc in magic circle [6]
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 sc in all sts [12]
4 (sc, inc) x 4 [18]
5-6 sc in all sts [18]
switch to Duck Egg Blue yarn
7-15 sc in all sts [18]
Fasten off, stuff fully, and leave a tail for sewing.
Skirt
with Sailor Blue yarn
1 Ch 48, join with a sl st to the first ch, sc in the chains [48]
2 sc in all sts [48]
3 (7sc, inc) x 6 [54]
4 sc in all sts [54]
5 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc) x 5, 4sc [60]
6 sc in all sts [60]
7 (9sc, inc) x 6 [66]
8 sc in all sts [66]
9 5sc, inc, (10sc, inc) x 5, 5sc [72]
Fasten off, weave the tails in.
Dress Strap
with Sailor Blue yarn
1 Ch 20, dc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as first st), 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 4 sl st, 2sc, 2hdc, 3dc, turn [18]
Right Strap (RME’s right)
2 Ch 2, 3dc, 4hdc, 4 sl st, 7sc [18]
Left Strap
2 Ch 1, 7sc, 4 sl st, 2sc, 2hdc, 3dc [18]
Fasten off and do not weave the tails in, you will need them for sewing. The fatter side of each strap will be the front of the strap (the side where you made 3dc instead of the side with 7sc).
Assembling the Dress together
- Locate the front of the skirt and mark two spots with stitch markers (or pieces of scrap yarn in a different colour), making sure that there is a 6-stitch gap between the markers.
- With the chain side of the dress strap facing away from the 6-stitch gap, sew the front of the strap to the front of the skirt. Make sure to not sew into the 6-st gap.
- Count 7 stitches from the chain side of the strap and mark the 8th stitch with a stitch marker, you will be leaving a 7-st gap for the arms to go through.
- Sew the back of the strap to the back of the skirt, making sure that the strap isn’t twisted and that you are not sewing into the 7-st gap.
- Repeat on the other side and weave in the tails.
Rounding out the front of the dress and adding a chest strap:
- Pick up a single crochet on the first hdc from Row 2 of the Left Strap (see photo 1 below), 4sc down the strap.
- Work one sc into the corner (photo 2), 6sc across the front, one sc into the corner (photo 3), and 5sc up the Right Strap (photo 4). Do not fasten off.
- Chest Strap: Ch 12, sl st in 5th ch from hook, fasten off (photo 5 & 6).
- Using the tail from where you picked up a stitch on the Left Strap, sew your button onto the strap.
- Weave all the tails in. If you want to make sure the Chest Strap tail is nice and secure, you can dab a little bit of glue to ensure that it stays put.
Assembly
- Pin the Body onto the Head and sew together.
- Pin the Arms to the side of the body. Make sure to leave a 1-Row gap between the Head and the top of the Arms and keep a 10-stitch gap between the front of the two Arms. Sew in place.
- Pin the Legs onto the bottom of the Body. I left a 2-round gap at the bottom. Sew in place.
- Slip the Dress on from the bottom up and loop the straps over the shoulder. Button up the chest strap.
- Pin the first layer of the Hair onto the top of the Head. Sew it in place. I also made sure to sew the middle of each individual strand from the first layer to the Head so that the Hair will be a little bit more manageable. Make sure the hair strands are not twisted when you sew it down. (See photo below)
- Make sure to also sew the bangs from the first layer to the Head.
- I chose to not sew the second and third layers down, but you can if you want the hair to be perfectly positioned. Just make sure to not sew the ends down.
- Pin out a line across the face and embroider the mouth in with black embroidery thread. I initially tried to embroider a curvier line, but ultimately decided to just follow the line between Rows 13 & 14. My RME’s mouth is roughly 18 sts wide.
Please leave me a comment down below (or contact me) if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to see your creation so don’t forget to tag me (@olliehollycrochet) on Instagram or use the #olliehollycrochet! Please let me know in the comments what you would like to see next!
If you find any mistakes in the pattern, please contact me and let me know! I do my best to catch my mistakes when I edit my patterns but I sometimes miss the little things.
You may sell products made from this pattern in small quantities but please clearly credit the design to me, Abby Sy of Ollie + Holly and provide a link to my blog www.OllieHolly.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
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